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Groenland, Island of Disko.
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Université du Texas

Project of trip.

The trip in Scandinavia in June, 2004 gave me a very good impression of the north, of Arctic regions.
Idea is therefore to go back to it, but in a frankly Arctic region.
My attention is attracted by the Greenland, and rather the west coast.
Then the sun of midnight being rather nice has food, they are going to aim at a degree of latitude above 66 °. For instance Ilulissat at 70° north.
I contacted GNGL for this, and here is the detailed description of trip: Ile_Disko.doc

My Photographs.

Click on the photograph to cross the next chapter...

Interesting Sites.


I contacted the French agency Grand Nord Grand Large for this trip.
I discovered later that they sold retail trips Topas...

Topas is a Dane agency which organizes treks in different places, with a broad part in Greenland. This agency is opened to different countries, the guide is Danish English-speaking, and we often find several nationality in the group.
Site in English intended to promote tourism in the Greenland, as well as GNGL.
Greenland Guide
Greenland Travel
Some site in English on the Greenland.
Ilulissat Travel
Agency in Ilulissat giving a heap of service either to the customer, or to the other agencies in the berry of Disko.

Météo.

Voici les prévisions météo le long de cote ouest du groenland:

Upernavik, 72°N
Jakobshavn, 69°N
Kangerlussuaq, 67°N
Nuuk, 64°N
Frederikshaab, 62°N
Narsaq, 60°N






Histoire.


Date
Histoire
2400 av JC - 1800 av JC
Civilization Independence 1.
- They lived in tent, and their tools are only sharpened, they knows the needle.
- One meetings principally on the north coast.
- We assume their redemption of in a cooling of climate.
700 av JC - 200 av JC
Civilization Independence 2.
- They lived in tent, their tools are sharpened and polished, their needles are flat.
- One meetings principally on the north coast.
- We assume their redemption of in climatic modifications.
700 av JC - 200 après JC
Civilization Dorset 1.
- Appearance in the big half south of Greenland.
- Perhaps they lived under tent or under igloo.
800 à 1300 après JC.
Civilization Dorset 2.
- Appearance in the region of Thulé / Qaanaq.
- They lived in of small home, with accés by a long hall half sub-ground.
- They used stone lamps.
1050 à 1450 (nord)
1050 à 1850 (sud)
Civilization of Thulé (Qaanaq).
- They are the forerunners of actual civilization Inuit, and they colonized approximately all coasts.
- They leaved Alaska to attain the north of the Greenland.
- They are clever hunters (arches, arrows), they use the traineau and kayak.
- The winter they lived in home in peats, in stone, and the summer they used tents.
- They light up with sharpened lamps in stealites, using some animal fat.
- They evacuated the north of Greenland around 1400, probably because of the cooling of climate.
- They have "disappears" by fitting to oriental civilization.
982 à 1410
Arrival of the Vikings.
- Erik the red escapes Iceland having makes a murder, and with man's about twenty they search a nice place in Groneland.
- They become established in Qassiarsuk (not very far from Narsarsuaq) in the south.
- After some years, they come back in Iceland to blow deserve of Greenland, and he call it " green land ".
- It goes back in Greenland with 25 drakkars and 1000 persons, and becomes established in the south top (around Narsarsuaq) and on the west coast (around Nuuk).
- They construct churches, smithy, of farms and bring some cows and pigs.
- They also play the peach and hunt, and population increase up to 4000 - 5000 inhabitants.
- This auspicious period stops when climate gets colder in the 14°S, as well as with the arrival of an epidemic of black plague in 1348-1349, then by the migration of Inuits southward and which compete with them.
- Establishment around Nuuk would have disappears from 1342, and after 1410 for the south top.
1585 à 1615
Research of a passage towards China by the north.
- August 18th, 1576: The English boat Gabriel " brushes the coast of Greenland.
- 1578: the king of Denmark sends Hennigsen. It will make U-turn before having attained Greenland.
- 1585: English J.Davis take back up the Berry of Disko until Nuuk and in 3 successive trips.
- 1605: The king of Denmark dispatch a new expedition. The contact with the Eskimoes is violent.
- 1606: new Danish expedition. They bring 5 Eskimoes and their kayak in the Danish courtyard.
- 1615: English Baffin follows the west coast of Greenland and takes back up until 78 ° parallel, in the berry of whalers.
- 1619: The Danish captain Munch gets ahead until 63 ° parallel, and after a hard rainy season he go back to Copenhagen where he finds the king of mediocre mood.
18°S
Colonization:
- 1721: the Norwegian pastor grunt Egede found the Company of Bergen, and attains Greenland the July 3rd to evangelize Inuits. He remains 15 years here, and writes his work here " Description and Natural history of Greenland ". It will increase the interest for Greenland.
- 1776: Denmark found the " Royal Company of Greenland " which is in charge of the transport and trades with Greenland.
19°S
Conquest of Pole.
- August 9th, 1818: English John Ross arrives at the Cape York (to the south of Thulé / Qaanaq), then goes back down along Baffin island.
- 1822: Scoresby on board of Baffin, explores lands around Baffin bay (northwest of Greenland).
- 1853-55: AMERICAN E.K.KANE mapping the lands of Inglefield and Washington.
- 1870: the American Foyer advances in the channel Robertson (to the south of Thulé / Qaanaq), and dies here slaughtered.
- 1878: Grunts Hendrik (accompanist of Kane, Foyer, the Hague) publishes its memories in London (partly cut down).
- 1884: Gustav Holm meets esquimos of Greenland.
- 1886-1909: the American admiral Peary organizes 8 expeditions between Thulé / Qaanaq and the North Pole, sometimes by way of the inlandsis, and tells have attained pole.
- 1888: Nansen crosses the inlandsis.
20°S
Several expeditions is organized in North Poles or in Greenland.
- 1904-33: Danish Rasmussen throws 7 expeditions in the Arctic to the Bering Strait, and created the trading post of Thulé (Qaanaq) in 1910.
- 1906: Erichsen attracts a rainy season in Greenland, where he died.
- 1909: Cook told have attained pole.
(It would seem that either Cook or Peary does not attains the North Pole)
- 1910: Mikkelsen crosses the inlandsis.
- 1913: Koch-Wegener crosses the inlandsis.
- 1920-35: Jean baptist Charcot performs 7 trips in the Greenland, especially on the east coast.
- 1930-31: German Alfred Wegener lays scientific foundations named Eismitte (70°53' N, 40°42' W, 3000m). Temperatures during expedition went of - 65°C in - 3°C.
- 1930-31: Augustine Courtauld lays scientific foundations for 1 year towards Tasiilaq / Ammassalik in 2500m of altitude, or he crosses the only winter.
- 1931: Hoygaar-Mehren crosses the inlandsis.
- 1936: Paul-Emile Victor, Robert Gessain, Michel Perez, Eigil Knuth cross the inlandsis.
- 1950: French polar Expedition with Paul-Emile Victor and Jean Malaurie.

Géographie.

An interesting view of the inlandsis which I found on Internet.

An interesting picture of the common sailors around the Greenland.

Géologie

http://www.transpolair.com/destinations/groenland/geographie.htm

Les Vidéos!

A video appraise in the night at the rate of 1 picture every 5 minutes between 22 h and 7 h in the morning. It's a pity that the weather was covered, but we see however distinctly the movement of icebergs in the sea.
Wholesale trades touch the bottom and can be immobilize several days, while the small circulate in liking of the wind and to current.
The camera is installed in mountains, at 800m of altitude, above Qeqertarsuaq / Godhavn, the sea being orientated south.
The mosquito is very present in Greenland, and particularly in inside valleys that is green and humid. They happen on us by wave of 50, the mosquito net becomes necessary.
Here, I try to film a mosquito in full action. Mosquitoes settle matter either, even in eyes, and tatent the surface with their horn to spot a place appropriate or sting.
A second video during night, at the rate of picture every 5 - 7 minutes. The big iceberg turns round on this photograph in the early hours, and the weather is a little more clear than the previous video.
The camera is installed in Qeqertarsuaq / Godhavn, the sea being orientated south.
A video made on the inlandsis. I makes a complete turn with my camera while I got ahead of 100m inside of inlandsis.

Diaporama.

Le diaporama démarre en cliquant sur l'image ci-dessous.
Attention:



Remarque: n'utilisez pas de durée trop courtes si votre ligne internet ne suit pas.

Photograph of Greenland.


Open I take off at 9 h 15 from Copenhagen for Kangerlussuaq.
Kangerlussuaq is a small village constructed around an ancient American military airport, which was recovered by Greenland to use it as international airport.
When the plane goes up to Greenland, we pass above the ice pack of the east coast of Greenland.

Open Some instants afterwards we are above the mountains of the east coast of Greenland. We see an Alpine landscape, with funds of valley pervaded by long glaciers fed by the inlandsis.

Open On Monday, July 25th at 12 h 30, I arrive at Ilulissat. Then I discover the impressive quantity of iceberg in the sea and in the close fiord.

Open I begin with a small walk in Ilulissat in the afternoon.
Here, it is the harbour of peach. Numerous fisher leave fish along icebergs, because there is more oxygen (imprisoned in the ice which melts), therefore more of fish.

Open On Tuesday, July 26th, I find the group. The afternoon we become established in the camping of Ilulissat. I discover that GNGL sold a Topas trip, that it is a Danish agency which can sell treks worldwide via Internet. There is 5 Danish, 2 Norwegian, 2 Italians, and me only French. Therefore we are going to speak in English during 15 days!

Open The meal of midday and evening will be made based on bread, fish, cheese. In the evening our guide takes us to walk around between 21 h and 23 h towards Isfjord. First we meet these small white flowers typical of marshes of regions Nordic.

Open The camping is located in 500m about of Isflord, that here is on this photograph.

Open Here is a zoom on one of the icebergs which we meet regularly on Isfjord.

Open It is the mouth of Isfjord. A compact ice pack circulates permanently in the fiord, and which is pushed by the glacier coming from the inlandsis.
Certain party of the fiord orientated to the open sea can be cleared of ice, as it is case on this photograph.

Open On Wednesday, July 27th we take the helicopter towards the island of Disko, which is called Qerqertarsuaq, the same name as the main city where we will going to land.
The city of Qerqertarsuaq is also called Godhavn in Danish.
In the bay of Disko, we meet whole heap of iceberg, as this one.

Open We live this evening in a home done up to accept about fifteen of people. We leave for a walk in city. Along the way, we discover this beach with a failed iceberg double.

Open A flower which we often meet in the Greenland.

Open Other one, yellow, which we often see.

Open On Thursday, July 28th, we leave towards the glacier Lyngmarksbroen, located above Godhavn.

Open The way takes us from the sea level to 800m of altitude.
Slopes are green until about 500m or 600m of altitude.

Open Then arrived towards 700m or 800m, we do not remain more than rocks. Snow appears here, but we can see it down elsewhere.

Open Then we have the right in the afternoon to go around in dog sleigh.
Then I try to make some interesting photographs.

Open Dogs in real job!

Open We make a pause the midway, that allows to make some photographs of the landscape.

Open Here, the dogs having a rest...

Open Then we come back and I reattempt some photographs since the sleigh.

Open On Friday, July 29th is only reserved for descent.

Open We put our stuff close to campground, then we leave an instant in the city of Godhavn (Qeqertarsuaq) .

Open On Saturday, July 30th, we have rain all the day. Of blow we stay on place, we just content themselves by walking around towards a coast not far.

Open We discover very nice rocks, soil very green. In some places, he goes out some lukewarm water at 8°C (we are in an ancient volcanic region), what allows the vegetation to be light green.

Open The coast remains interesting, in spite of poor weather. Godhavn / Qeqertarsuaq recovers some icebergs coming from Isfjord, and causes a small local concentration.

Open We also discover beaches, caverns...

Open On Sunday, July 31st, we shorten a difficulty by moving us by boat at following stage. In fact it is necessary to cross a torrent with shallows or there can be quite a lot of water (until thigh) and with rather well of speed. The guide preferred left fallen.

Open We camp towards the region named Laksebugt.
We have some free time in the afternoon. We leave for walking towards a small valley located in south of the camping, and orientated towards the glacier Lyngmarksbroen, where we was a few days before.

Open With the guide we go up on the tray Luciefjeld. By going up, we have an interesting view on the valley which we have just borrowed.

Open We walk down on other side of Luciefjeld (side of Itivneq kitdleq). We cross fields of moss where we often find this ...a thickness of 20 in 30cm of moss (herself crossed by other plants) put on a soil of earth or stone, with more or less water.
We meet this everywhere in plane regions of Greenland. Perhaps it is a demonstration of the permafrost?

Open On Monday, August 01st, it is a question of crossing the valley Itivneq kitdleq. It is there where things go bad. We are under mosquitoes attack, they take us down by wave of 50, they settle everywhere, for instance in eyes!
So we have to put a mosquito net on the head, and even our guide Christian (been used to these regions) succumbs to the charm of the mosquito net.

Open From time to time we must cross rivers with shallows. Water is rather cold, between 0°c and 5°c, the best is to go quickly without stopping. Often we have the right, on the other side, to a pretty one carpet of moss, nice to the foot.

Open A landscape in the valley Itivneq kitdleq.

Open Here is what we often find: a carpet of moss of 20...30 cm put down on a soil of earth and water.

Open Then we are one other side of the peninsula which we crossed. On slopes, it is always drier, easier for walking.

Open A view on Disko fiord. The weather is covered, it is a bit a pity.

Open We tarverse Disko Fjord thanks to Johannes (a fisher of Godhavn), and we are arrived at Kangerluk. It is a small village and more typical than Ilulissat. We sleep at the inhabitant's by group of 2 persons.
The following day, Tuesday, August 02nd, we remain all day long in Kangerluk, and we sleep therefore a second night. We use this day to discover the village and these surroundings, in spite of a covered weather. Here it is a fish drier.

Open Here, it is the graveyard of Kangerluk. There is a similar one in Ilulissat.

Open Then the evening after meal, a surprise wait for us. The villagers organize a party in the evening, because we are their last group of tourist. To the right, it somebody is specialized in the musical animation. We also have a hi-fi chain, and they alternate between CD and an instrument, as here with the accordion.

Open Here is a specialist, who is the specialist for encouraging people to dance.

Open On Wednesday, August 03rd, the party is finish, and we leave again by boat towards Fangsthus. We are set ashore some km before, to walk a bit by foot. We arrive then enough early at a red shelter which we see on this photograph.

Open The afternoon, I leave go for a walk, and I brings back  some photographs of flower or plants.

Open A typical plant in the Greenland.

Open A typical plant in the Greenland.
This one resembles a succulent. It is one of the rare breeds that supports frost, and grows anywhere on the planet.

Open A typical plant in the Greenland.

Open On Thursday, August 04th, we start the crossing of the valley of Itivneq Kangigdleq. The nice weather is back till the end of the trek. Here, we pass in front of a lake.

Open Another lake...

Open Again another...

Open Here it is our attacker: the mosquito. He should try to sting across my trousers, but he will not do it, because the mesh size of cloth is too much gripped!

Open A last view of Disko berry...

Open We are now arrived close to the middle of the valley.
It is still here a typical soil inside the island of Disko when there is not marsh.

Open Then we cross a cataract, where we find a structure of rock already seen elsewhere in Iceland. The rock becomes eroded by updating a repetitive motive!

Open We are now in 400m of altitude, it is high for vegetation. We find portray of soil...

Open Or again some marshes!
We will camp in the middle of the valley for two successive nights.

Open On Friday, August 05th, we have the free day therefore in the middle of the valley Itivneq Kangigdleq, and with mosquitoes.

Open There is a good means to avoid mosquitoes: altitude! With 4 people, we decide to undertake the ascent of a summit in 969m.
Here I stop to make a photograph of this plant.

Open We extemporize a way to rise fast from 400m to 800m of altitude. At 800m, we fall on the traditional plateau of altitude of the island of Disko.

Open Then we follow to climb up to the summit at 969m. A small easy glacier to cross, and we are here!
An interesting photograph...

Open By walking back down, I take some photographs of flower of the Greenland.

Open Another plant....

Open And once again the mosquito!
Here, on the sock. I quickly photograph it, then I move it fast of the sock, because they can succeed in crossing the wool of socks.

Open On Saturday, August 06th, we go down towards Godhavn / Qeqertarssuaq. We cross some small rivers...

Open some plant...

Open some marshy zones...

Open And also this! A mixture of moss, water and grass. I find the green colours very green.

Open We meet another cataract...

Open that I photograph of another angle here.
The way for a good instant in altitude at 300...400m, we will attain the seaside only in the evening.

Open A region which I thought very nice...

Open this river encircled with moss, with grass, with stone with mountains in bottom gives a very nice landscape.

Open I therefore do not resist to make several photograph of this place...

Open especially since this green region of moss and grass is  light green and bright, and stretches over several hundred of metres.

Open Again some photographs...

Open And a small one behind.

Open By arriving close to the shore, we find this river that we saw some days earlier. It eroded the rock to give at certain places an interesting aspects.

Open On Sunday, August 7th, we have the free day till 16h in Qeqertarsuaq / Godhavn. Use it me to make a jump on the south cape of the island of Disko, which is the cape of Godhavn.
With very clear time, mountains, rocks and icebergs give pretty one landscape.

Open Another photograph appraise from south cape.

Open At 18h, we take a boat to go back to Ilulissat.
By sailing, we cross quite a lot of icebergs from Godhavn.

Open Another icebergs...

Open and still one, at arrival towards Ilulissat.

Open On Monday, August 08th, we have a free day in Ilulissat until 17h. Use it me to do again a turn towards Isfjord.

Open Here are some photographs on the way...

Open Here are some photographs on the way...

Open then around an iceberg...

Open Arrived where I wanted after 3 h of walk, I realize that I am not moved far a lot. Isfjord is very long, and it would be necessary to envisage several days of trek with the tent to move far enough towards the end of this fiord.
Then I come back, because I must go around in city before the shop closes!

Open In the evening, we go to the retaurant which offers a buffet with a good French wine. A bit expensive, but tasty!
Then at 22 h, we embark on a boat to sail around the forehead of the ice pack of Isfjors. Here I found amusing to see birds using the ice as stop point.

Open And we are in the middle of the icebergs of Isfjord...

Open I take several photograph...

Open during the sunset.

Open The boat stops one instant during the sunset. We have the chance to benefit of very pretty sunset in this evening!

Open On Tuesday, August 09th, we take off for Kangerlussuaq. It is the return, and the trek is finish. Here by air, a last view on Isfjord.

Open Here, we see the edge of the inlandsis.

Open Arrived at Kangerlussuaq, we wait for 8 h. We use this time to go on the inlandsis in 4x4 car-truck. We discover the landscapes of Kangerlussuaq then. Weather is just a bit hotter, and there is more bush.

Open Another photograph between Kangerlussuaq and the inlandsis.

Open Then we are close to the inlandsis. A table and a barbecue is installed, but we will not have the time to use it.

Open Then we venture on foot on the inlandsis.
As in Iceland, there is not almost crack, what allows to walk on the glacier without too much danger.

Open A photograph appraise 100m farther towards the inlandsis.

Open Then we take back theft for Copenhagen, and here is the last photograph of the inlandsis taken through clouds.

Map

Click here to see where is this place !
Be Careful! The display of Google Map doesn't work with Opera.


big photograph of the Greenland - big photograph of Disko - big photograph of Illulissat - big photograph of iceberg - big photograph of inlandsis - big photograph of plane - history of the Greenland - big photograph of the harbour of ilulissat - big photograph of the flora of the Greenland - big photograph of the Arctic flora - big photograph of the Arctic - big photograph of sleigh ä dog - camping in the Greenland - big photograph of the Greenland - big photograph of the tundra of the Greenland - big photograph of the Arctic tundra - big photograph of river of the Greenland - big photograph of field of moss  - big photograph of splendid landscape - big photograph of flower of the Greenland


Créer le : 28 may 2005.
Dernière Modification le : 14 february 2007.

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